We saw lot of variety this year. It was clear from presentations of Spring 2017 that runways were not full of inclusivity. In the history of runways, the New York Fashion Week proved to be the most body positive. As compared to before, there were more colored models in the catwalks all across the Western world.
The plus size models were brought in the main fashion world by designer Christian Siriano. During the celebration of unconventional beauty and architectural swimwear collection, fashion label presented curvy and disabled models along with four transgender models. During ‘Yeezy’ Season 4, hundreds of colored women were presented by Kanye West. Models of every age were presented by Tome, Bottega Veneta and others.
But even then, 25% remained the total percentage of colored models on the runways. The percentage of plus size women remained just 0.54% while 67% is the total percentage of population of size 12 or above in USA. Out of total 150 designers, just 46 were non white which include just 8 black.
Knowing that, we expected that diversity will be presented during Fall 2016 prints. During the global campaigns, designers think in the traditional way. Dr. Ben Berry, Professor at Ryerson University, told that designers who want to cast different models can’t do it in numerous occasions as it is safer to present white models that attract more customers and reduces the risk.
Ewe can say that the industry is slowing moving towards inclusion of diversity after examining 190 fashion print campaigns. There were 23.3% women of color among the 438 models presented during Fall 2016. Several major campaigns of the season presented women of color but their percentage increased to only 1.5% as compared to that of Spring 2016.
During these campaigns, 76.7% were white models, 11.2% were black, 5.9% Asian, 2.5% Latino and 0.2% Middle Eastern models. The percentage of Middle Eastern models may rise due to the start of ‘Vogue Arabia’.
During fall 2016 campaign, famous labels like Moschino, Chloe and Valentino presented not even a single colored model out of four they presented. In Spring 2016, Chloe showcased a Brazilian beauty Ari Westphal for its ready to wear campaign which was the first time after 2001 that it presented a non white model. But now, the label is unfortunately back on its track.
In contrast, the ‘Fenty x Puma’ of Rihanna presented the all non white models during its campaigns. Apart from that, the exclusively colored models were also presented by brands like Balenciaga, Chanel Eyewear, Loewe, Alexander McQueen and Karl Lagerfeld. Apart from that, Victoria;s Secrete subsidiary PINK has its first ever colore sportsmodel this year.
There were 11 white models among the top 13 most booked models for print campaigns of Fall 2016. He most seven ad campaigns were won by Frederikke Sofie and Julia Nobis each while six ads campaigns are taken by Natalie Westling. Five ads each were given to Lexi Boling, Mica Arganaraz, Jamie Bochert and Gigi Hadid.
All the others got 4 ad campaigns each including Rianne van Rompaey, Freja Beha Erichsen, Karlie kloss, Sasha Pivovarova, Stella Tennant and genderless model Dilone. She started her career with surprise by walking in menswear show of Bottega Veneta’s Fall 2016 collection.
SIZE
Famous British model Philomena Kwao was asked in 2015 about the thing she would like to change in fashion industry. The model replied that she would change the mentality of industry regard to size or color according to which models are booked in high campaigns.
But it remained there as only 14 plus size women out of total 438 models were there in recent fashion shows which mean just 3.2% (but they were above the previous year of 1.6%). On the other hand, there were five colored plus size models (there was no one during Spring 2016).
SIZE
But in fact, 12 out of these 14 models were booked by plus-size brands as they only cast women of size 12 or more. European fashion brand “Lindex” was the major exception that was seen leading the plus size model campaign while major fashion lines like H&M and Marc Jacobs remained absent in his aspect this time.
AGE
Reina Lewis, professor at London College of Fashion, said in 2015 that real life is not presented in fashion and even normal clothes look beautiful on young women instead of the older ones. But during Fall 2016 season, 4.1% older models were presented and their total number was 18. In comparison, there were 9 older models in Spring 2016 but 22 models with age 50 or above in Fall 2015 fashion ads. Out of these 18 models, 4 were of color.
AGE
Majority of these models were introduced by Marc Jacobs.he introduced models like Kembra Pfahler, Susan Sarandon, Courtney Love, Genesis P-Orridge, Keiji Haino and Sissy Spacek. Apart from that, several other aged models also posed for different brands while one among them was 85 year old Carmen Dell’Orefice who started her modeling career at the age of 13.
The reason for increase in aged models in a report by A.T. Kearney according to which 60% of all consumer spending is made by people over 60.
TRANSGENDER
In fashion ad campaigns, transgender models are presented less than any other aforementioned group because they represent the least common sector of general population. During fall 2015 and fall 2016 campaigns, no transgender model was presented but there were three white transgender models presented in Fall 2015.
TRANSGENDER
In 2015, the word “they” was made Word of the Year and we saw more transgender models on the runways that year as compared to any other year while there were more transgender actors that played central characters on TV than any year before. But the trend was not represented by magazines and fashion billboards.
TRANSGENDER
Barry wrote in a column that in contrary to the thinking of brands, the consumers don’t mind to see racially inclusive ads. He said all everyone should try to create diversity in every aspect of fashion industry as it is missing for now.
