This morning, Carleen’s spring ’14 lookbook just dropped in our inboxes. The line boasts plenty of military jackets and talisman trinkets to make the connection clear, is heavily influenced by Patti Smith’s Just Kids, though there aren’t vintage kimonos and sheer shirts in the collection. And wearing plain, white shirt dress in a mixed-up, costume-ish way is one of our favorite plays on the Smith-and-Mapplethorpe vibe.

A shirt dress becomes a top with a train, unbuttoned from the waist down. During Rachel Comey’s spring ’14 show, we saw this styling trick once before and the white, plain, knee-length…